How to install Click-Lock Laminate Flooring HOMEMAKERS

How to install Click-Lock Laminate Flooring HOMEMAKERS

How to install Click-Lock Laminate Flooring

Snap-together flooring is easy to install. Follow these step-by-step instructions to learn how.

General Information

Most laminate wooden floors are laid by dry-clipping board together. Clipping mechanisms vary, but principles are the same. Whether you need a vapour barrier or underlay will depend on the type of floor. If in doubt, install one. Wooden flooring needs to acclimatize for two or three days before being laid. Do not open the packs.

When calculating the quantity of planks needed for your projects, keep in mind that wastage due to off-cuts may be as high as 15% depending on the seam pattern you choose.

Remember, laminate is a floating floor as should not be fixed to the sub floor.

You will need:

  • Laminated wood planks
  • Underlay
  • Tape
  • Carpet knife
  • Hammer
  • Measuring Tape
  • Jig Saw
  • Knocking block
  • Pry bar
  • Plastic spacers
  • Pencil
  • How to install Click-Lock Laminate Flooring HOMEMAKERS

The descent preparation of the sub-floor is of crucial importance. Ensure the following:

  • Floors are completely dry
  • Floors are level and smooth
  • Free of dust and foreign objects

Step-by-Step Instructions:

  1. Install the Foam Underlayment
  2. Lay the First Row
  3. Install Subsequent Rows
  4. Going Around a Doorway
  5. Finishing Details

1. Install the Foam Underlayment

  • Roll out the foam across the floors surface. Tape the seams together between the sheets of underlayment (Image 1)
  • Trim the foam to size, ensuring that it fits precisely at the junctions between the walls and the floor. Use a utility knife to cut it (Image 2)

2. Lay the First Row

  • Position the first board in a corner of the room. (Image 1)
  • Make sure the grooved side of the boards is against the wall. Insert plastic wedges between the board and the wall. (Image 2)
  • To place the next board, engage it with the end of the first board by holding it roughly 45 degrees to the first board. (Image 3)
  • Press down on the second board, and lock it into place. Continue joining boards in this way to make the first row. (Image 4)
  • Insert wedges at regular intervals. As you near the end of the row, you will probably need to cut a board at finish.

3. Install Subsequent Rows

  • Use the offcut piece from the end of the first row to start the second. Engage it at a 45-degree angle to the edges of the first-row boards. (Image 1)
  • Tap the board with a knocking block to tighten. Place another board beside it. Leave a slight gap so you can clip it to the first row, then knock fully into place. Repeat along row. (Image 2)
  • You may need a pry bar to tighten the joint for the last board in any row. Hook the pry bar over the end of the board, and tap its other end with a hammer. (Image 3)

4. Going Around a Doorway

  • In the doorway, boards should extend to the threshold. Keep laying boards until you near the final wall, and a whole board is too wide to fit. Make a profile of the doorway from cardboard and transfer to a plank. Cut along the pencil edge with a jigsaw. Install the board, using a pry bar to tap in the clip-together mechanism. Use this method to cut and attach all boards against the wall. (Image 1)
  • Install a threshold strip in the doorway.(Image 2)

5. Finishing Details

  • Finish off the room with lengths of edging (shoe molding), pinned or glued (with contact adhesive) to the baseboard. This is to cover the expansion gap.(Image 1)

Written and Conducted by Dave Beukes, Operational Manager at Magnedor 166 CC

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